Blog – Traveling in south-eastern Australia and throughout New Zealand
Day 1 – Nov 5. Quite the ordeal flying Air Canada. I’m boxed in up against the window and Shari is beside me on the 16+ hour flight from Vancouver to Sydney. I was able to extricate myself once during the flight and walked as long as I could. Must have read part of a book and watched at least 3 movies. When booking the flight, I didn’t see how to order vegan food for Shari so she was eating bits of bread, almonds and the like. Delighted to see my brother Bob when we finally got out of Customs and Immigration. Drove home and then went for a walk to clear the cobwebs. Hit a local market for veggies. Weather is perfect in Sydney – around 16 degrees and plant life is sprouting all over.
Day 2 – Nov 6: Today the biggest event was to go shopping for groceries. To be truthful, getting adjusted to the new times takes a little work. Not very exciting and not a photo tour. We saw some community gardens and talked to one of the gardeners.
Day 3 – Nov 7: Got more interesting as the day wore on. It’s Monday and that is race day. Sailing in a race with a team of about 8, of which 2 of us were newbies, doesn’t make for the best performance. Still we came in 4th in a group of 10 other boats and the skipper (Bob) was relatively pleased with the result. Performance of my job, which was basically to ‘tail’ for the starboard winch operator, led me to believe I wouldn’t be invited back but it seems next Monday, the skipper is in need of helping hands. Lucky me.
Day 4 – Nov 8: Today Shari and I walked from Coogee Beach to Bondi Beach, following which Shari went and fetched groceries so that she could make a special meal. During the walk today, we saw the results of sculpture and photography contests. A few of the sculptures are shown in the gallery.
Day 5- Nov 9: Not much to report today. A trip to grocery store and some work on Great White. Need to replace a valve on the bilge return line and a new pulley.
Day 6 – Nov 10: Took a harbour tour today on ferry boats visiting City Centre and Manly, both of which were bustling with tourists but not overly crowded. At Manly we had a great lunch and watched the televised Aqua Rugby competition in the harbour, along with several packed cruise boats.
Day 7 – Nov 11: No pictures today although I’ll take some later. Naya, James and Maddox are coming for supper (Thai food). However, today was the day to pick up the motorcycle and bring it to the apartment. Made out OK, I guess, but stalled on a right turn 2x but drivers were courteous and just went around me. The bike was a bit of a disappointment as it had numerous scratches and broken bits and 80,000 KMS. Had to phone to get the rental company to email me the pictures of all the broken bits. Made a few wrong turns trying to follow verbal GPS instructions but made it in one piece. Getting into the garage with its steep slope was hard work. Finally got it in the garage and I was sweating bricks. The Harley engine is so hot it just about melts you at slow speed.
Days 8,9: Nov 12, 13: Spent 2 great days following Garry around – first to the north of Sydney and then south of Sydney. The first day was ‘trying’ – new bike and trying to keep up. I’ve never seen so many switchbacks, hills, and turns in one place. I came home and went to bed. We had travelled only 280 kms but under those conditions, it felt like 1000. Had drinks before Garry went home and that really did me in. Day 2 was much easier although there were lots of stretches of turns and twists. Garry and I got hit by rain for an hour but not heavy. We got to a pub for noon hour and waited 1/2 hour for Bob, Ann and Shari to meet us. Then Garry and I took off again. We were scheduled to get ice cream but the business had closed. Cloudy but lots of nice scenery. For each of the 2 days, Garry sent me a detailed map showing all of the twists and turns we had taken each day. What a magnificent gift to see it overlaid on a topographical map.
Nov 14, 15; Quiet days except on the 15th, I was again crewing on Bob’s boat for a race. It was somewhat disappointing as we came in 3rd when we the entire crew thought we had won. However, such is racing when each boat has a handicap applied. One thing about racing, it certainly exhausts you. I had decided on these days not to use the motorcycle so it stayed in the basement garage just looking like a pretty Harley should
Nov 16: Took the bike to the rental place today by following Bob through a network of tunnels and turns. They took photographs but didn’t appear to find anything amiss. I don’t miss the bike – just getting to the gearshift was a challenge sometimes. And the back brake, which all Harley users are told to use constantly was also difficult to reach and maintain balance. Then Shari and I walked to and from the Sydney Botanical Gardens at which I took some pics. Ann took a picture of 2 engineers trying to install a lightbulb. I guess it’s gone viral by now.
Nov 17: Spent the day dropping Ann off at the DR office, going to the airport, flying to Melbourne and Robin met us to drive us to her place. Sleeping on a thin futon on the floor turned out to be difficult but I survived. It was so great to see my niece again and her eldest son, Liam
Nov 18: Took a long walk through a nearby nature reserve. Saw kangaroos, and a lot of wild birds; Ended the hike with breakfast at a corner location. Drove across Melbourne to visit with niece Deanna and husband Bill who were the in the process of trying to sell their house. The house they are moving to is a major fixer-upper but Bill is familiar with that work.
Nov 19: Went to a local coffee house with Patrick. Started to drizzle so we went to a movie ‘She Said’ and upon leaving the sun shone again. Went to see Robin’s new house (purchase pending) and followed that with supper at craft brewery. Met Liam’s girlfriend Bell that night.
Nov 20: Went on an early morning walk to photograph the hundreds of colourful Lorakeets that screech in the tall trees. Then Robin, Patrick, Shari and I went to a large garden centre followed by a visit to a huge property (Heide) bequeathed to the city with flowering trees and shrubs and sculptures. Ended the day packing, chatting with Patrick and Liam, and Robin drove us to the airport to return to Sydney.
Nov 21 Monday: Today was race day but the winds were high all day and Bob was thinking the race might be cancelled. At 4:30 PM he was notified that the race would not be held. But we already had reservations for dinner. Many of the crew members showed up and so we ate and drank for a few hours before returning to the apartment.
Nov 22: Today we drove to Hunter Valley but on the way, we stopped at The Saddles restaurant which had a beautiful pond with many birds. Food was great and then we carried on to Broken View Estate. We had 2 separate cabins with king size beds and jacuzzi tubs. Pizza for supper
Nov 23: Today we went wine-tasting at 3 locations – Tyrrell, Pepper Tree and BrokenWood. By the end of the day, we were well saturated. In the evening we went to the Amanda restaurant for an expensive prix fixe meal. Bob managed to find his way back to the resort – I was almost asleep in the back of the car.
Nov 24: Today was the last day at the Broken View Estate resort. Bob wanted to see the drone fly before we left so I launched it and flew it around a bit. Unfortunately, I flew it into a tree and it stayed lodged there in the top of a very tall tree on the bank of a stream. We left and Bob drove straight home because Ann had an appointment. Bob bought huge steaks for a great bbq supper with wine we bought from Hunter Valley. I think Bob was trying to cheer me up but it was a sad evening nonetheless.
Nov 25: Today was a down day. Walked into town to buy some groceries for my last dinner in Sydney. Tried to check in with NZ Air but they wanted to see proof that I had a booked flight out of the country. Bob drove me to a Harley dealership where I bought some presents. Shari also bought some souvenirs. Can never have enough fridge magnets! Rest of the day was packing
Nov 26 & 27: Travel day and what a long day! Early rise to say goodbye and early arrival to check bags for flight to Auckland Then the flight was 2 hours late and lost 2 more hours in the time change. Then lost over 1 1/2 hours in NZ Biosecurity inspection followed by a shuttle bus to the Parnell hotel A quick bite and off to slumberland; The 27th was spent meeting my fellow travellers, 3 couples plus myself – we will have one guide (Rhys) for the North Island, and 2 guides Bruce and Scott for the South island. All great guys. It was raining in Auckland but I went for a long walk along the harbour and into downtown core anyway.
Nov 28: Monday and not a great day for photographs but what a day for bike riding. For 400 kms we did nothing but twists and turns. Fortunately we stopped occasionally to rest my wrists which were aching from leaning on them all day. But it was exhilarating for sure. And to end the day at Paihia, ended up on the ground floor with my own patio, king size bed. I just wish Shari were with me. But, on the other hand, the ride today may have made her seasick.
Nov 29: Paihia: Today was what is called an ‘Off’ day – one not spent on the motorcycle. So, most of the group decided to go on a boat cruise to see the Hole in the Rock – basically an island with a clear hole through it to the other side, begin enough for a boat to go through, which we did. So, it turned out to be nice weather and good for photographing the sites, and doing some shopping and talking.
Nov 30: Gosh I fell behind in my blog (actually lost a lot entries). Today we travelled along the east coast enyoying the ocean view. Then we had to spend over an hour in dense traffic trying to get through Auckland. Since this is the inaugural trip for Renedian Adventures in NZ, I’m guessing some way will be found to make the trip less onerous. We finally arrived at our hotel just south of Auckland – a new Hilton hotel in Karaka that was comfortable.
Dec 1: This was a part of the trip I was looking forward to as I had read some good things about the Coromandel peninsula. We travelled right along the coast looping around to the east side before arriving at Pauanui. We arrived at our accommodation which was set back from the Pauanui Beach. From the resort it was a steep 60 degree climb to individual cabins set in dense forest. Accommodations were great but we all felt we needed a drink before dinner. Every day we get more and more experience at switch backs and our tour leader Rhys loves to find them, at a great speed. One tour member has coerced the tour guide to take her early in the morning to surf.
Dec 2: Picking up our surfer gal, we continued today back towards Rotorua. She had a grin all over face as she was used to surfing in Crystal Beach on Lake Erie. The trip today followed the east coastline with lots of views of the ocean and miles of beaches before turning inland and hitting a main highway into Rotorua. The hotel was a grand old hotel being managed now by Maori and we had paid to attend a grand showing and dinner of Maori customs. I have to admit, the late night was hard to take as I was almost asleep by the end of the spectacle. I had, however, convinced the driver to take us to a public park to view the sulpher hot springs. They looked like hot mud but at least we saw them.
Dec 3: As promised by Rhys, this would be a delightful day of switchbacks, twist and turns. We travelled due south from Rotorua in nice but cool weather before turning east towards Napier. we climbed up high over a mountain range and the temperature dropped below 11 degrees. At times we were traveling at 115 kms/hr and I was wearing ever piece of clothing I owned. But it was exhilerating. We arrived in Napier and checked in with a view of the ocean on the other side of the beachfront street.
Dec 4: Trip to Wellington: Started out travelling through vineyards of Hawke’s Bay. (drank of a gallon of Hawke’s Bay red wine – their white is better). Then Rhys found hills to climb and we were doing hairpins coming down. then his GPS led him to about 2 kms of very loose gravel. It was nasty driving and we didn’t know when it would end. But fortunately no one wiped out. Ended the trip following a trail through numerous old towns that reminded me of Western frontier towns and since it was Sunday, the towns appeared to be deserted. Wellington City was huge of course, being the Capital. and it took quite a while to reach out Hilton Hotel. We were told we had to park on the 5th floor of the parkade. Evening was spent with a special dinner to say goodbye to Rhys. Unfortunately I drank too much wine.
Dec 5: Trip to Hanmer Springs; We were up very early and in the lobby dressed to ride at 6:30 am. Brought the bikes down and waited beside the hotel for Bruce and Scott who were not long arriving despite a near mishap on the way. Boarded the ferry and tried to eat a box lunch which wasn’t too appetizing. We arrived on time and immediately headed to fill up with petrol and start the long trip (4+ hours) to Hanmer City. Of course, it involved some hairpin turns but that is becoming a natural pastime. Arrived just before 6 pm at our resort and I was too tired (and full of snacks) to eat supper.
Dec 6: Trip to Nelson: Apparently the ferocious storm that hit between Picton and Nelson a few years back destroyed the main roads joining the two. For that reason, we had to travel south to Hanmer Springs and now travel north to Nelson. It’s on the coast and there are nice beaches but it’s hardly sunbathing weather ( 18 degrees). The trip today was the best ever. Rolling hills at a comfortable pace for less than 400 kms. It was terrific. Slept like a log at night with a grin on my face.
Dec 7: Rest day in Nelson: The new guide for the South Island, Bruce, warned me that my hands and body will be very uncomfortable as we travel south through mountains and possibly rain. So, today I spent the morning shelling out for water proof winter gloves and a heavy merino wool sweater-jacket. I’m broke but very happy with the purchase. I did not buy the possum-merino sweaters that look attractive but are quite bulky. I don’t know if the fur comes from the same kind of opossum that I’m familiar with in Canada. This afternoon some of the guys are going to an antique car show. Good rest day.
Dec 8: Down coast to Punakaiki: Another great travel day and for the first time, I had to shed layers of clothes as the temperature went well above 20 degrees. The ride was terrific as we had several stops such as experiencing a suspension bridge and zip line return. Another stop where Rene posed the bikes along a river for a group photo. At our destination, the lodge was right on the coast and we could walk to a viewing site of pancake rocks and blow holes. In all, one of our best days and the meals and stops along the way were excellent.
Dec 9: Down coast to Fox Glacier: It promises to be a rainy day today so we will experience our first day of cold and wet. And wet it was. Everyone was soaked and so the number of stops were limited. I had 1/2 inch of water inside my boot shortly after starting out. And there wasn’t much to see – staring at the road and trying to keep the visor clear was the best I could manage. Even when we arrived at our lodge at Fox Glacier, the rain continued through the night. After a very early arrival at the resort, everyone spent the entire time putting money in the dryer or turning up the heat on soaked boots. The actual trip was uneventful. The roads in New Zealand are very pebbly and the tires grip well. The roads department have many signs out warning of upcoming debris that has or is being worked on. Someone is making a fortune on selling red cones to mark the work areas. And the roads have many one lane bridges and so one must constantly be aware that you have to stop if a vehicle has already started passing towards you. The fortunate part of driving on the south island is that there are not many people and so traffic is limited. Only 1 million of the 5 million New Zealanders inhabit the South Island. It was too bad we didn’t get to see the glacier, or the beautiful lakes in a sunny setting
Dec 10: Drive to Queenstown; The day started out similar to yesterday with threatening heavy showers. The clouds hung on through most of the day but the rain actually held off except for short periods of light drizzle. We travelled down the coast stopping at places like Bruce Bay even though the low clouds prevented us from seeing a great deal. At Haast, we fueled up and turned inland. We climbed the mountain range and came back down, passing between 2 large lakes – Lake Wanaka and Lake Hawea. The descent down into Queenstown was spectacular as we observed a plane descending at our altitude just before we wound and cork-screwed our way into the city. We parked in the underground lot because we are staying for 2 nights in Queenstown. Our next stop, hopefully under better weather will be Te Anau.
Dec 11: Queenstown: It will be a shopping day today I guess and we have a jet boat that takes us on Lake Wakatipu. It was supposed to rain, possibly thunderstorms but instead we had a beautiful sunny day. There were hangliders floating down from the mountain tops, gondola going up and plenty of boat trips. Our jet boat gave us a good time skimming the edge of the huge lake where Queenstown in situated. He did several 360’s which included getting me quite wet but the camera survived. I ended up holding onto my glasses as the twin 274 HP motors created speeds up to 80km/hr. Lots of fun and lots of people of all ages – especially at night. A real tourist party town
Dec 12:: Drive to Te Anau. Although we left late and made a couple of stops and filled up with petrol, we still arrived today by noon. Fortunately our rooms were available. Leaving Queenstown, the road wound around the edge of the lake for miles – a huge lake. Then we entered pasture and farmland. I counted at least 5 million sheep, including a lot of young lambs (plus or minus 4 million). This afternoon, there’s a 3-D cinema that is open and we’ve booked a matinee. The 1/2 hour cinema showed from aerial views the vast and highly mountainous Fiordland that existed just west of us. The remaining part of the day was spent socializing and shopping. Although its a small town, they get a lot of visitors and bars are busy at night. They also have a wonderful lake and very long walk tiled around it. So, I took a long walk around Te Anau lake.
Dec 13: Drive to Milford Sound. The weather was supposed to be somewhat wet and there were numerous warnings about road maintenance that would make the trip slow. Turned out the weather was wonderful and because we left so early (7:05 am), there were few tourist buses and not too much in the way of maintenance that had started. The timing was based on a cruise we had booked on Milford Sound. We arrived in time to park in free parking area, change our clothes and still had 1/2 hour wait before boarding. Well worth it, was the consensus. Milford Sound gets 170 days of rain but not today. It does get a lot of wind – once reaching a record 170 km/hr but today it was only 30 knots which was still quite enough when we were outside facing the wind. Some good opportunities to photograph waterfalls. We took our time on the bikes returning back to Te Anau but everyone seemed to arrived back at roughly the same time – gassed up for tomorrow’s adventure.
Dec 14: Drive to Dunedin; It was planned to be a very early start but we all got kicked out of bed in an untimely manner when a kitchen bacon fire caused the fire alarm to sound off. So, with an early start, we decided to take the scenic (make that twisty) route south to the coast. We visited a hardware store that had the fastest motorcycle in its class to make a land speed record. Of course it was an old bike but it had been built by a ‘tinkerer’ who kept modifying things throughout his life and he came up with a bike that people were amazed broke the record before it broke down ‘again’. So we left Invercargill town and kept following the southern coast. There were very few cafes to stop at a nd even less gas stations. We made it through more twisty mountain roads and that lead us to the main highway into Dunedin. Once in Dunedin, we travelled more hilly climbs to the castle perched on a high cliff overlooking the city, our lodge for the night. For supper, we enjoyed a ‘chef’s choice’ 4-course dinner that included duck, and lamb. I crashed early as it had been a very tiring trip.
Dec 15; Drive to Resort near Mt Cook; Our destination today was an outdoors camp tailored to hikers, night-time sky photographers and those wishing to take helicopter rides to see the snow and the majesty of Mt Cook. Our drive started well but the weather did deteriorate and we had to don rainwear. Rain wasn’t heavy but the clouds obscured the tops of the mountains. Still it was an impressive ride as we climbed higher and enjoyed the mountain air. Upon arriving and after getting my slightly damp clothes hung to dry i went out for 2 hour hike before supper. Very well laid out and from the destination point we could easily spot the glaciers. There were also signs of massive erosion left behind by what would have been glaciers at one time.
Dec 16: Our last day – a drive to Christchurch. Early in the morning, as sun broke, I got to see mountain peaks but as we readied for the drive, it was raining lightly and that continued until lunch time. Although soggy, we noticed that the day was clearing and getting warmer. Our group was starting to shed layers of clothes. We drove through some neat mountain switchbacks and getting to the plateau on the other side, we hit a road closure. We ended up traveling through 5 kms of fresh gravel but fortunately there were firm ruts that made the ride rough but safe. Continuing on, we finally arrived at Christchurch and delivered our bikes back to the owner. After he saw that the bikes were unscathed, he opened a case of beer for us all. It was a bittersweet moment as we piled all of our belongings that had been stored on the bike into Rene’s van and he drove us to the hotel for one last sleep. In the evening supper, Rene had Tshirts and diplomas and a tall glass of wine to mark the event. At supper, we all thanked our 2 guides, Bruce and Scott and made plans to share images within the group via email that we thought were photo-worthy. Packing was a real chore but I think I succeeded in storing everything, except for my yellow rainsuit that had seen it’s last motorcycle ride. The next day is a long flight home via Auckland and Vancouver
END OF BLOG this is the last entry.